Visiting Ancestors and the Best Bahn Khot!
Thien's grandparents' tomb
Bahn Khot are little
crepe-like rice panc
akes with shrimp, topped with powdered dried shrimp and chopped green onions. They are eaten wrapped in greens and dipped in nuoc mam. These little suckers are amazing! Not to mention we ate them here in Vung Tao, at the most famous
Vung Tao
Soft landing into the comfort of our secondary home in Saigon, we met Thien's mom and planned our next journey to Vung Tao, the town ( now ever growing city) where he was born. This is our second trip to the port city that was once occupied by the French, then the Americans and later, the Russians. Remains of these epochs are evident in the architecture, including the old Rex Hotel, which I believe having read, was a communications center for the US during the War. It is now the 3rd largest city and a popular vacation spot for nationals. The funky coastline is a hodge podge of archictural styles, from gaudy neo-colonial, to mid-century, to New England style knock-offs. In between are Theravada Buddhist Temples and Christian chusches alike, sometimes overlapping with their statues and symbols of faith on the horizon. Check it out for yourself!
Break Time
For as much as we love Saigon and all of is underpinnings, we've been here for a month while only taking an overnight trip partly up the Mekong. The weather seems to be warming up and the hours between noon and 3pm are a bit torturish- we preffer to spend them in our hotel, in the aircon, reading or trying to surf the web,...well,actually, here its more like wading in the slow and shallow virtual shoals. We seem to wake up fully when the sun begins to back off and the thick motorbike pollution seems to be swept away by the almost predictable afternoon breeze. This is the time of day our routine kicks in, starting with a much anticipated visit to our moveable coffee shop accross the street. Mainly set up to feed the local labor class during the day, the afternoon brings in a variety of people, even other farong and Viet Cu like ourselves. But we have established a mutual friendship with the family that runs the not-so-legal joint, (by this I mean that they seem to only have a liscence for food and coffee, but beer and smokes are always available.) During inspection day, they seem to be gone, but really, they've only just set-up around the corner in the alley street in front of their home. From there, the meals continue to be served and there is always a cold Tiger beer somewhere to be provided for two thirsty regulars.
We've discovered many many things about Saigon just from hanging out back there. Apparently, inspection can last a few days so we've been intently observing who comes in, who goes out. It is literally "The Lost City" that has yet to be mentioned in any of the "Pancacker" travel guides. The labryinth of small streets that are city block deep is just incredible. Cities within cites....food stalls, hair salons, computer rooms.....all providing local services within the 5, 6 story buildings erected above the double motorbike width alleys.
It is time for us to pack-up shop and hit the pristine waters of Phu Quoc. Our eco-villa at Bo Resort will bring forth a fresh new perspective as we near the end of the beginning of our stay. We will be limited in our communication with the rest of the world for the next five days. Cheers to our friends and family!
xoxo D & T.
When you're feeling down, get beat up!
Cao Gio (fire cupping) is a long-standing healing art in Vietnam, as it is in many other parts of Asia. The technique involves having your masseuse prep your back with about 10 minutes of acupressure focused on the complaint area(s). When you're all warmed up and ready to go, she preps her first glass jar by rubbing the inside with a swab of alchohol, which she then lights with a small torch and promptly lays on your slightly oiled skin, causing a leech strength suction that stretches your skin to the limits. Once she's done placing her whole collection of about 30 cuppers on your back and arms, she places a warm towel over the cups that now create a nice table for two. It's a strange yet cool sensation as she slides her hands up and down the glasses that now encase your skin. I guess it's meant to stimulate the circulation, as if the rest wasn't enough! As that part is cookin', you get a nice leg and foot massage, probably to take your mind off an almost unbearable skin stretch. Periodicaly she reaches over to ensure that the cups are tight and doing their job by giving them an extra twist. After about 20 minutes, she starts pluckin' away, like picking mollusks off the sea wall. Little do you know that by the end of the treatment you'll look like, (quoting Thien).."you got hit by a tennis ball machine!" The circle tattoos will last about a week, they say. It's been about 5 days and I'm still bearing the marks. But I must say, it really is a pick-me-up when you're feeling a bit sluggish or fluish. My session extended into an hour-long combo of Shiatsu, Thai and Taiwanese acupressure techniques that stretched, pulled, pushed and kneaded away any tightness or stress in the body. And all of this for an unreasonable $110,000 dng (apx. $8.50 USD)!!! At home a similar treatment has cost me upwards of $120 for a 90-minute session, without the cupping! What a deal..... I'm definetly going back, but next timewill be for a foot massage, which includes a 20 minute session in an herbal steam and sauna, a jacuzzi with mineral salts and your choice of essential oils, a half-hour foot reflexology targeting specific ailments, topping off the gour long treatment with a parrafin dip. All of this for a very affordable price: $15 USD/60 min or $20/90min. Defenitely a must for any hard working local or tired traveller.
The clinic is called Ngoc Anh and is located at 31/1 Nguyen Binh Kiem, Q.1, HCMC http://www.tanngocanh.com/ & http://www.ngocanhspa.com/.
Power Bowl Saigonese Style
Bowling is a big part of the Saigonese's leisure activities. With AC, thumping music and an attentive wait staff bringing you beers, smoothies and snacks, it is a great way to spend a hot afternoon. With Thien's aunt and uncle, and our extended family from our hotel at Nam De, we bowled it out, leaving Thien the champ, Lauc in 2nd place and Nam, our hip-hop surrogate sister, coming in 3rd, calling it close with Phuong in 4th and myself, competing with Co Lan for fifth and final place!
RU Palace
This is a detail of the Reunification Palace built in the 1960's to house the South Vietnamese government until northern troops broke through the gates in 1975, giving it its current name. The architecture, being mid-century, is quite stunning, with beautiful gardens and a modern art museum attached. Unfortunately, we visited when the gates were closing. But we will go back to walk the grounds and take more pics. Later, D.
Pham Ngu Lauers
Once every few days we like to do some type of tourist activity like hang out at Pham Ngu Lau, the backpaker district, and intently observe "first-timers" and "old-timers" alike. There are those who come in search of anonymity, others who are blatently devious and proud of it. Then there are the 20-somethings that hang out at places like the Go To Bar (the old Heart of Darkness) in their tour group and swap stories of their recent trips to Cambodia and Laos. And out of the corner of your eye you'll see the older, worn out American Vet, milking his Johnny Walker as he considers the array of propositions he receives throughout the evening. Splattered all over the place is a kaleidescope of foreign travellers, some in search of a long-time-gone romanticised dream, others, wandering about with just plain deer-in-headlights looks. Maybe some believe the dream and think they'll find it backpacking through this urban jungle, or by indulging in one of the many luxurious recreations of the French Colonial epoch (note: in 1859 the French naval destroyed what the Nguyen emporers had built here, only to rebuild it as a colonial city and rename it Saigon, meaning "wood of the kapok tree". My point being that the romanticised notion of Indochine should be taken with a grain of salt, and should not be the sole lens through which it is seen nor experienced. Especially because the French only ruled indirectly for a brief period, considering this country's long standing history.)
Anyways....on with the blog...
And somewhere in between stand the tax evaders, the small-time drug dealers that "can't" return home. However, they can only hide for so long in their ex-pat bars and pretend this world is their oyster, because, really, they are the golden oysters in the eyes of the everyday people.
But those who choose not to return home end up going into some sort of business, like making plaster fountains in Vung Tau or the like. And, we know this, how? Well, we've developed some good eavesdropping, observational and conversational skills over the past several weeks as we try to understand what it is that has drawn over 400,000 tourists in the month of February alone!
And we discover new answers to that question everyday.
Lost in Saigon
Hello friends! Just wanted to touch base - hope everyone is doing great - we are having an amazing trip so far - 3 weeks in, and 3 weeks left - how time flies! We have been getting to know the real in's and out's of Saigon and everyday is a brand new adventure leading to the discovery of something new. Yesterday we got lost in Saigon and ended up crossing several bridges and ending up in District 2 on some very small and obscure streets - the "real Saigon" discovered, away from anything modern...back to basic living. Later on, after having to take the ferry back with our motorbike from wherever we were, we learned we were in the area where Thien and his family lived for 3 months prior to leaving the country. Tonight we will be going back with the video cam and also to take more pics. We'll post them later on our blog . It's not totally updated yet - we've had some computer/internet problems that we just resolved. Can't wait to hear from everyone... hugs, D&T.
Part II: Cai Rang, Can Tho & Mekong continued...
Where did we leave off....oh yeah....the city of Can Tho....after waking from a much needed nap in our windowless "budget" room (which we had reluctantly accepted as a downgrade from our reserved "superior" room for half of the "tourist" price......mmmm......) we were ready to find a bargain sanpan and guide to take us to the floating markets at Cai Rang at sunrise. No need to look far, for once we reached the boardwalk, a persistant dark boat man named Hui
immediately sold us on a 3 hour tour for half the price the hotel was offering. Thien negotiated as we followed him to see our ride. We were satisfied. It was time to find some food and more photo opp's. We found ourselves amidst a highly energetic crowd, busily finishing the final touches on the the display booths for the Mekong-Can Tho yearly festival. We witnessed rats of all shapes and sizes, from gigantic gold and silver paper maches to woven life-size animated creatures - all of course in celebration of the Year of the Rat, 2008. +of+IMGP4233.JPG)
No, folks, Chinese New Year festivities had not died down and Chunc Mung Nam Moi banners were as prominent as ever! As the sun began to settle, the neon lights took its place. We walked across the bridge which crossed the Cai Khe Canal in search of the well known Victoria Can Tho Hotel. As we approached its secluded location, we began to wonder if we shouldn't have just bitten the bullet and stayed there instead. At first glance we were impressed with its colonial architecture and manicured gardens. The lobby was striking with its open-air patios and magazine pool. But after observing the guests, we realized that this is what we had come here to get away from- not that we don't appreciate the finer things in life, but we had not travelled half-way across the globe to be surrounded by American and European tourists who preffered to visit from a distance. You know, the kind that do not like to "mingle" with the locals, or eat the local fare. They much prefer their Indochina dream unscathed by the not-so-romantic harshness of life. But all that comes with the loss of truly experiencing the heart of Vietnam, of its people. 
immediately sold us on a 3 hour tour for half the price the hotel was offering. Thien negotiated as we followed him to see our ride. We were satisfied. It was time to find some food and more photo opp's. We found ourselves amidst a highly energetic crowd, busily finishing the final touches on the the display booths for the Mekong-Can Tho yearly festival. We witnessed rats of all shapes and sizes, from gigantic gold and silver paper maches to woven life-size animated creatures - all of course in celebration of the Year of the Rat, 2008. No, folks, Chinese New Year festivities had not died down and Chunc Mung Nam Moi banners were as prominent as ever! As the sun began to settle, the neon lights took its place. We walked across the bridge which crossed the Cai Khe Canal in search of the well known Victoria Can Tho Hotel. As we approached its secluded location, we began to wonder if we shouldn't have just bitten the bullet and stayed there instead. At first glance we were impressed with its colonial architecture and manicured gardens. The lobby was striking with its open-air patios and magazine pool. But after observing the guests, we realized that this is what we had come here to get away from- not that we don't appreciate the finer things in life, but we had not travelled half-way across the globe to be surrounded by American and European tourists who preffered to visit from a distance. You know, the kind that do not like to "mingle" with the locals, or eat the local fare. They much prefer their Indochina dream unscathed by the not-so-romantic harshness of life. But all that comes with the loss of truly experiencing the heart of Vietnam, of its people. After our inflated $7.00 bill was paid, we found ourselves back on the street, plopped down at a Bun Xeo street restaurant and enjoyed one of the best Vietnamese crepes we had had yet, and at $2, only a fraction of our Victoria bill (bottled water is normally .20 cents, a liquor $1.50-2, Victoria water 2.50 and the campari a modest 4.50). You can really take it up the arse at some of these "finer" resorts.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
